Kiradu: Another Khajuraho

 

In the ancient times as the legend has it that when King Daksha decided to conduct the great Brihaspati yagna{sacrifice}, he excluded his Shiva and Sati, his son in law and daughter respectively, from the ceremony, as Daksha hated Shiva. But his daughter,Sati, who loved him dearly, could not stay away and journeyed to his father’s place, thinking, “ my father will not be able to turn me away when he sees me.” Poor Sati did not comprehend the extent of hardhearted Dakshs’s anger. When the king saw his child, he spat out a stream of abuses about Shiva. The devoted wife, Sati was unable to tolerate the insult to her husband. An obedient daughter, she was equally unable to cross her own father. So, overpowered by grief, she immolated herself in the yagna fire itself before her father and other gods. Shiva, in his abode on mount Kailash, heard the sad tidings and flew into a mighty rage, swearing to take revenge upon an unrepentant Daksha for his injustice. Coming down to the earth, Shiva and his army of spirits marched to the site of the king’s yagna and decimated Dakshs’s army. Shiva beheaded the monarch and threw his head into the sacrificial fire. Then sorrowfully he picked up Sati’s body and wandered with it across the land for many years, aimless and disconsolate. Lord Vishnu finally took pity on this mighty go and decided to end his mourning. Using his powerful weapon, the Sudarshanchakra{discus}, he cut the corpse into many pieces. As the 51 parts of Sati’s body fell on the ground they turned into stone and sanctified the soil upon which they landed, creating 51 holy and potent Pitha-s or places across India. And thus it came to be, the ancient Vedic texts tell us, that Bharatvarsh{the Indian sub-continent} became a “ sacred land” with the holy mountain in the north and the Nav-kanyakas{nine maidens} or holy rivers like Ganga and Yamuna flowing through it. A land of seven Kshetra-s or regions of active power, the Saptpuri or seven ancient cities of Ayodhya, Mathura, maya(Hardwar), Kashi(Benaras) Knchi, avantika, and Dvaravati(Dwarka), where Moksha(salvation) can be attained. A country which, according to the epic, the Mahabharta, has thousands of tirtha-s (places of pilgrimage) where devotees can ford the river of life and reach the sublime shore beyond.

 

From its northernmost regions to the tip of its southern peninsula in Indian Ocean, India is filled with places of worship. It would be impossible to walk a mile here without coming upon a shrine, a temple of some sort or the other, be it a historic monument or simply a piece of stone symbolizing a village deity. Each is significant in its own way, commemorating the occasion of a god’s visit or deed of valor in the area or explaining its existence due to divine creation or patronage. Everyone wanted to be near god.

 

In the southwest of Rajasthan 220 km from Jodhpur and at about 35 km from Barmer lies one such place Kiradu, a not very much known destination. Kiradu, now a desolate and deserted place was once a prosperous temple township of Chalukya and Parmar dynasties in 10^th to 13^th centuries Ad. Here are five of the finest temples of that era. Parmar rulers as a representative of the Chalukyas ruled Kiradu, which was earlier known as Kiratkoop. Three stone edicts of that period, which are intact at the temple of Someshwar, tell us about these rulers. These contain details of the Parmar kings from Sindhuraj to Someshwar. It seems that Kiradu temples were built over a long period when these Parmar rulers ruled this place. In the Jain scriptures, Sakal Teerrth Srot and Nabhinandan Jinoddhar kiradu is also referred as a Jain center of religious importance. From available sources of history and scriptures it appears that Kiradu was a place where along with Shaiv, vaishnav the Jain religion also co-existed.

 

Though at present there are only five temples, it is said that at the beginning of this century there were about two dozen Hindu and Jain temples. This seems plausible from the ruins of other structures and a lot of raised sand Teelas with the structure of the base of the other temples.

 

The five dilapidated Hindu temples at Kiradu are representative of the western Indian style during the late Pratihara period. This style loosely termed as Nagara or metropolitan style refers to a large wide range of temples built over a large expanse of time and space across the trunk of the Indian sub-continent. In the history of northern Hindu architecture, the regions that stand out as excellent examples of Nagara style, are Rajasthan-Gujrat, Orissa and central India. The typical Kiradu temple has a squire sanctuary adjoining a small porch or columned mandapa, also known as “rang mandap” as it was used for religious and dance performances. The sanctuary walls raised high on a moulded basement are covered with niches for sculpture. Above rise the clustered elements of the curved tower or the Shikhara of the temple, which are covered with arch like motifs. Doorways and columns are generally richly carved; ceilings are fashioned as corbelled domes. Many of these features anticipate the Solanki style, which became prevalent in the region by the 12^th century; some of the temples even belong to this later phase.

 

The best-preserved temple of the cluster is the Someshwar temple. The basement reliefs of the sanctuary are of interest, especially the elephants, horses, courtly episodes and epic scenes; most of the wall panels are intact. Above rises a cluster of turrets that once formed the base of the central tower, now fallen. The mandap is an impressive structure with an octagonal arrangement of the central columns; only the beams and lowest courses of the corbelled dome are intact. The elaborately decorated columns, covered with miniature figures and ornamental motifs, resemble those of the better-preserved monuments of this style at Modhera and Khjuraho. The epic motifs carved on the walls are from Ramayana and Mahabharata. Also carved are the episodes of the life of the lord Krishna as Pootnabudh, Gberndhan Dharan etc. on a panel there is Punch Ganesh, five Ganeshas playing different musical instruments, also carved on a panel is the episode of Samudramanthan, the figures and bodyline of the characters are a fine example of the accuracy of humanform. The upper niches of the temple contain some of the finest female figures carved in various poses.

 

The four other temples of the Kiradu complex are of smaller size. These temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahmma are also decorated with carvings but the carvings are not as fine as the Someshwar temple.

 

The site definitely is in the need of conservation. The vagaries of weather and local neglect are fast taking over the health of this matchless heritage. Though the site is a protected monument yet a lot more is needed to be done.